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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Drafting the Bodice Front - Tutorial

As my ModCloth Ripoff series has started, There are a few basic things that you will need to be able to follow along with me.  Half of this stuff I'll make up as I go along, but if I can make it work, then anyone can.

Materials needed:
Yard stick or long clear ruler (mine's 18 inches)
French Curves (a dinner plate can work in some places)
Pencil and Eraser
Wrapping Paper*
Measurements (tutorial here)

*I use wrapping paper because it's wide enough that I can do my front and back blocks side by side, but it's also helpful to use wrapping paper because printer paper won't be long enough or wide enough to accommodate the widths we're working with.*

This is the tutorial for drafting the basic Front Bodice pattern or block. 

Measurements Needed:
Front Bust - Full Front Length - Center Front Width - Center Front Length - Shoulder Length - Halter - Across Chest - Side - Dart Start - Front Waist - Bust Level - Bust Bridge

1. Draw a rectangle with the width equal to your Front Bust measurement divided by two plus 1/2 inch and the length equal to your Full Front Length measurement plus 1/4 inch.  Label the right edge "Center Front."

2. Draw a parallel line 11/4 inch from the left side. Along the upper edge, measure over your Center Front Width measurement and mark with a dot. Mark another dot 11/2 inch below that first dot and label it "A."  Using your Center Front Length measurement plus 1/4 inch measure this distance from the lower edge. Mark a dot and label it "C"

3. Draw a line the length of your Shoulder Length measurement, connecting dot A to the top rectangle line.  Mark a dot where the line meets and label it "B." Use a French Curve (a dinner plate can suffice) to connect dots B and C to create the neckline.

4. Draw a temporary line from dot B to the inner left line the length of your Halter measurement. Mark a dot where the lines meet and label it "D."

5. Divide your Center Front Length measurement by five, measure down this distance from dot C and label it "E." Divide your Across Chest measurement by two and add 1/4 inch. Square a temporary line from dot E, mark a dot and label it "F." Use a french curve or something round to connect dots A, F and D to create your armhole.

6. Draw a line the length of your Side measurement and connect dot D to the outer left edge.  Mark a dot and label it "G." (sorry I apparently didn't take a picture of this step)

7. Mark dot "H" along the lower edge, measuring out from the center front your Dart Start measurement.  Mark dot "I" along the center front, 1/4 inch up from the lower edge.  Connect dots G, H and I.

8. Divide your Front Waist measurement in half and add 1/4 inch. Subtract your Dart Start measurement from that calculation. Measure this distance from dot G and label it "J."

9. place you ruler on the patter, connecting dot A and I.  Draw a temporary diagonal line the length of your Bust Level measurement.  Mark wit a dot and label it "K."

10. Divide you Bust Bridge measurement in half. With this calculation, draw a temporary line from the center front that goes through dot K.  Mark this line with a dot and label it with a star. This is your bust point.

11. Connect the bust point to dot H to create a dart leg.  Measure this line and draw another line the same length connecting dots K and J, redrawing the waist line between dots G and J if necessary.

You will want to True the dart on your block. Do this by folding the dart as if you were to sew it up.

With a Tracing wheel or a pair of scissors trace or cut along the bottom of the block where the dart is folded under.

If using a tracing wheel, unfold and using a ruler connect the dots that were traced out (if scissors were used just unfold the dart) and you're done.

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